Mixing skill, patience, imagination
Outfitting an entire starship and visiting aliens can be a
daunting task, but the wardrobe team at STAR
TREK CONTINUES employs sleuthing skills and huge doses of creativity and
patience to meet the demands of each episode.
The costuming process starts even before a script is
finished, with Executive Producer Vic Mignogna sharing details with the costume
designer months before filming begins.
The collaborative process of identifying costuming needs, designing for
specific actors, and accommodating a dizzying array of last-minute requests
takes a team of experts to make sure that filming can be accomplished on
schedule with “just the right look” to emulate 1960’s TV.
For Ginger Holley, who started as a wardrobe assistant on
STC Episode II “Lolani” and managed costuming for Episode III “The Fairest of
them All,” a passion for costuming began in the Renaissance period.
“I got into costuming in 2006.
My friend had a Renaissance wedding and it
was so much cheaper to make the pieces she wanted rather than buy them. That
led to Renaissance Faires and then anime and sci-fi conventions, and then
cosplay (costuming play.)
I wanted to do
it for a living, so I pursued a bachelor’s degree in Fashion Design.
That training has proved to be invaluable,
because for
STAR TREK CONTINUES I
frequently have to draft patterns and grade costumes into different sizes.
It’s all very technical and those are things are
very difficult to teach yourself,” Holley says.
She graduated the week after filming wrapped
on “Lolani” and she started working almost immediately with Executive Producer
Vic Mignogna on what would be needed for the ambitious “mirror episode” shoot
that started a few short months later.
Mirror Mechanics
“Since most of what we do on STAR TREK CONTINUES takes place in the third season, we’ve been
grateful for the support of uniform licensee Anovos. They’ve supplied Starfleet uniforms for our
principals and extra players,” Holley explains.
But mirror episode “Fairest of Them All” required both a return to
second season velour uniforms and the additional adornments that clearly mark them
as part of the “Terran Empire.”
“We worked from November through March to bring that episode
together from a costuming standpoint. One of the biggest challenges was pulling
it together over the holiday season. We
were sourcing fabrics from what felt like every website on the planet!”
Holley picked up a new skill while preparing for the mirror
episode shoot – learning how to dye large quantities of fabric just the right
shades of STAR TREK gold and blue.
“We finally found the right cotton velour about two weeks
before filming began, and so all of the dyed tunics for the main cast and for
extras had to be cut and assembled very quickly.
I had never dyed anything before, so I
watched a lot of YouTube videos.
I ended
up dyeing the fabrics in my bathtub. It was a lot of trial and error.
"The gold
mix I can now dye with three different recipes.
Blue was a little trickier because it’s hard to accurately photograph
the blue.
When you look at the original
reference photos, the color looks different from photo to photo.
But we ended up very pleased with our
choices.
Onscreen and under studio
lights, those velour tunics look just like the originals,” said Holley.
The most difficult vintage piece to construct was the
sleeveless gold vest worn by Kirk in the mirror episode. Holley found vintage mid-century woven gold
metal lurex fabric for Kirk’s sparkly vest, building two identical versions so
that the production wouldn’t be slowed if one was damaged during fight scenes.
“The way the light hits this 60 year old fabric is
magnificent. It sparkles just like the
original. Vic had photos of the actual vest for reference purposes, and we
spent a lot of time researching the fabric properties. A lot of the stitching was done by hand so
that the metal fibers weren’t damaged,” she explains.
Episode IV Challenges
Holley manufactured 12 new costumes for the upcoming Episode
IV, including a few original designs, recruiting friends to finish the projects
in time for filming.
“Throughout the year I source, run the budget, research,
order, maintain the inventory, and design for upcoming scripts pretty much on
my own,” she said. “When it comes to crunch time, I call in my pre-production
team. They are vital to the success of each episode. For Episode IV I was
thrilled to have several fellow graduates from my school’s fashion program come
on board to help with all the new costume builds.”
For Dorothy Booraem, serving as Wardrobe Supervisor for
Episode IV meant keeping track of myriad details.
“The most difficult thing about being a wardrobe supervisor
is experiencing the difference between your carefully organized plans for
changes and upkeep to costumes and the beautiful chaos of actual production,”
Dorothy explains. The role of wardrobe
supervisor is primarily one of organization, time management and problem solving. “You'll face challenges like how to costume
four extras with three costumes, how to dress 15 actors while prepping the
costumes for another scene, and how to clean makeup off of a Starfleet uniform
when you can't take it off of the actor!”
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Dorothy, Ginger, and Hannah ham it up |
The costuming team needs to make sure that the costumes are
clean, in good repair and in the costumer's desired shooting condition - free
of wrinkles - exactly when they are needed.
“In the sci-fi genre actors may have to get into costume
first and THEN go to makeup. Depending on their makeup call time, which is
often very early, you and the costumes will need to be ready beforehand. So it
helps to be an early riser as well,” Dorothy explains.
“I was fortunate enough to have Ginger Holley and Hannah
Barucky on the STAR TREK CONTINUES
wardrobe team. They are experts in Starfleet uniforms, Starfleet casual wear
and alien sportswear of all kinds. The system we used to costume big groups was
to schedule the actor times, make a lot of lists, organize the costumes and
then be motivated, optimistic problem solvers.”
Episode IV wardrobe assistant Hannah Barucky has worn many
hats for STAR TREK CONTINUES, including
general production assistant and Uhura’s wig stylist.
“We had quite a few new pieces that needed to be created for
Episode IV, including a Cage-era uniform and some other very specific
costuming. I studied a lot of screen
captures to get things just right,” said Barucky, who is studying fashion
design at Ohio’s Ursuline College. “My
drapery teacher helped me with patterns and things we haven’t even done in
school yet,” she explains. “I’m excited
to help with costuming for STAR TREK
CONTINUES because that’s exactly what I want to do in my career.”
“It’s interesting that the uniforms in STAR TREK are so varied.
You’d think that they would be a lot more ‘uniform,’ but when you go
back and look at old episodes you can see how things were assembled and
finished. A lot of things were stitched
just for a particular scene, and we end up doing a lot of those same things in
our productions,” Barucky says.
STAR TREK CONTINUES’
wardrobe team feels that they are doing the same kind of frenetic work as Bill
Theiss, the original STAR TREK
costume designer.
“It’s such a big responsibility to follow in his footsteps. Obviously, there’s a specific look and feel
that we’re working hard to emulate. My
goal as the designer is that I never want to distract from the story. We just want it to look ‘right’ like STAR TREK should. You have to get into that ‘retro’ mindset,
even though it’s now 2015. We take a lot
of care to use the same methods and materials that Theiss would have used in
the late 1960’s,” said Holley. “It’s a challenge, but we love it. TOS was very
special, and we hope that everyone watching STC can see how much we all
appreciate that.”
Fans interested in pursuing costuming as a career need to
focus on organization and “people skills.”
“Both are absolutely necessary in any kind of production - stage, TV or film. As far
as where to find wardrobe work, depending on where you live, a community theater
is a great place to start or on local independent film where you are likely to be
the costume designer as well. You won't get paid, but you will get experience
and will probably have a great time,” says Booraem.